Mt. Everest Expedition 8848m
Mount Everest, the highest mountain in the world attracts many expeditions nowadays and during the main climbing seasons it can be particularly busy. However the reward is to stand on top of the world and for many it is the most exciting and rewarding experience of thier lives.The most summit success follows the normal route via the South Col with base camps installed at approximately 6000m, 6600m, 7400m and 8000m respectively.The route up is technically straightforward but climbers must be aware of the potential sudden weather changes that may occur and the risks involved with this.
To be on the top of Mt Everest is the pinnacle for any mountaineer for whilst it is not the most technically challenging mountain, there is nothing higher than it.The popularity of climbing Everest has grown significantly over recent years and now there are over 1000 summit attempts every year.It is well documented that the first successful summit of the mountain was acheived by Tenzing Norgay and Sir Edmund Hillary in 1953 via the South Col. Climbing Mt. Everest is certainly a lifetime opportunity for those with enough experience and will to acheive it. However, Everest expeditions may well and often do encounter problems on the way.Climbing at high altitude in what can be at times harsh weather conditions can often lead to exhaustion and we strongly reccomend that you are clear about the expedition detail,logistics and organisation before attempting a climb.
It should not need to be said nowadays nevertheless we feel it does need to be mentioned.People do some strange things at any altitude but we think high altitude does something very strange to some people. The environment is all we have but after climbing foreigners return home, whilst those who live in the region have to live and survive there. It is vitaly important to Mongolian Expeditions that we not only attempt to leave the environment as we found it, but also strive to assist the local population in protecting the land and people indigenous to that region.
An expedition team may choose all or any of the following services offered:
1.All permits and paper work needed for the expedition
2.A full service up to Everest Base Camp: This includes the transport of all expedition equipment and if required a trekking kitchen for expedition team members.These services are provided from Lukla or from Jiri.
3. A full summit service meals, tents high altitude mountain guides, sherpas and high-altitude porters with camps installed at approximately 6000m, 6600m, 7400m and 8000m
Useful information about the Climb
Details of the climb:
– Base Camp to Camp 1:
After Base Camp, we cross crevasses, sercs and black ice / large chunks of ice on the way up / Sherpas fix the Khumbu Ice Fall with ropes and ladders. Use fixed ropes and aluminum ladders to climb ahead to camp 1 at 6400m. Camp 1 is situated atflat area of endless snow deep crevasses and mountain walls. Because of the Sun’s reflection from this place we feel warm and heating ambience at this place.
– Camp 1 to Camp 2:
3-4 hours, 6750m
Camp 2 is located at the foot of the icy Mount Lhotse wall. Weather is normally fine here mostly apart for clouds that roll in from the lower range. The wind however can be very violent sometimes. Camp II will be the base during the placements of Camp 3 and Camp 4. Hence, Camp 2 will consist of large tents for cooking / dining and sleeping.
– Camp 2 to Camp 3:
Camp 3 is located adjoining to Mount Lhotse wall / Climb the Lhotse wall 1500m using fixed rope leading to camp 4. / cross short snowfield route that moves ahead to the east before finishing at the bottom of the south col.
– Camp 3 to Camp 4:
Camp 4 located at the height of 8400m / last camp of the expedition. Exciting with the realization that the summit is less than 500 m from here. From camp 3 oxygen is often needed / may feel discomfort due to the thinning air / cross short snowfield, the route traverses the Geneva Spur to the east before finishing the flats of the south col.
– Camp 4 to Summit
The final climb can be dangerous / chances of encountering violent wind / the summit is about 500m from Camp 4. The normal way to reach to summit is via the narrow South – East Ridge / the route also used by the first Everest summiteers Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgey.
Physical Condition and Climbing skill needed
Not only for your own personal safety but also for the safety of the expedition as a whole you must have put in enough adequate training and be in excellent physical condition before joining an expedition. Prior experience of carrying a heavy pack for multiple days is essential as climbers must be able to carry an average of 30lbs or more and be physically and mentally prepared to deal with strenuous situations at high altitudes. Climbers need to be in excellent physical condition for both personal enjoyment and to be an integral team member
Climbing Skill Level: Climbers prepared to take on Everest should have completed at least a full and intensive course on high altitude skills and climbing. They also must have completed a series of high altitude climbs at least two of these should be over 7000mtrs.
The spring season of March to May is considered the best time for Everest expedition. Spring is also the most popular season for expeditions. The months of April and May and then again October and November are the classic climbing period.
Climbing Day The climbing itinerary may differ according to the climber’s personal experience. A climbing day normally involves steady climbing of 3-4 hours in the morning. After taking lunch, rest and relax, then another 2-3 hours in the afternoon. However, flexibility in the climbing itinerary is built to allow for climbers differences.
From base camp, the route to the summit can be divided into four separate sections:
The Khumbu Icefall
The Western Cwm
The Lhotse Face
The Summit (South East) Ridge
Itinerary Option 1 (Fly In to Lukla and Fly out from Lukla)
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu / pick up from airport / transfer to Hotel.
Day 02: Sightseeing Tour in Kathmandu City / visiting all the major historical and cultural sites
Day 03: Preparation for expedition / briefing about the expedition at the Ministry of tourism.
Day 04: Fly to Lukla Airport (2840m) from Kathmandu Airport (approx 0:35 hours) and trek to Phakding (2610m/3:00 hours)
Day 05: Trek to Namche Bazaar (3440m) from Phakding(approx 5:30 hours)
Day 06: Rest day for Acclimatization / explore Sherpa museum and monastery / side treks
Day 07: Trek to Tengboche (3860 m approx 5 hours)
Day 08: Trek to Dingboche(4410m approx 5:30 hours)
Day 09: Rest day for Acclimatization / good monastery
Day 10: Trek to Lobuje(4910m approx 5:30 hours)
Day 11: Trek to Gorak Shep (5153m approx 3:30 hours)
Day 12: Trek to Everest Base Camp (5363m approx 4:00 hours)
Day 13-55: Mt. Everest Expedition Period (Summit and return to Base camp)
Day 56: Cleaning up Base Camp
Day 57: Trek to Pheruche 4210m (approx 6:00 hours)
Day 58: Trek to Khumjung (3440m approx 6:30 hours)
Day 59: Trek to Manjo(2610m approx 5:00 hours)
Day 60: Trek to Lukla(2840m approx 3:30 hours)
Day 61: Fly to Kathmandu from Lukla Airport(approx 0:35 hours) / pick up transfer to Hotel
Day 62: Free day in Kathmandu.
Day 63: Departure day / As per your flight schedule, transfer to airport.
Itinerary Option 2 (Drive in to Jiri and Fly out from Lukla)
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu / pick transfer hotel
Day 02: Sightseeing Tour in Kathmandu City / visit all sites of historical cultural importance
Day 03: Preparation for expedition / attend a briefing at The Ministry of Tourism.
Day 04: Drive from Kathmandu to Jiri about 188 km / takes about eight hours.
Day 05: Trek to Deurali (2705m.6:30 hours)
Day 06: Trek to Sete (2400m.6:30 hours)
Day 07: Trek to Junbesi (2675m.6:30 hours)
Day 08: Trek to Nunthala (2200m. 6:00 hours)
Day 09: Trek to Bupsa (2350m.approx 6:00 hours)
Day 10: Trek to Surkey (2400m6:30 hours)
Day 11: Trek to Phakding (2652m.approx 4:00 hours)
Day 12: Trek to Namche Bazaar (3440 m.5:30 hours)
Day 13: Rest at Namche Bazar for acclimatization / side treks.
Day 14: Trek to Tyangboche (3867 m.approx 5:00 hours)
Day 15: Trek to Dingboche (4260 m.approx 5:30 hours)
Day 16: Rest day at Dingboche (4260 m.) / acclimatization day.
Day 17: Trek to Lobuche (4930 m.approx 6:00 hours)
Day 18: Trek to Everest Base Camp (5486m.approx 4:00 hours)
Day 19-61: Mt. Everest Expedition Period (Summit and return to Base camp)
Day 62: Cleaning up Base Camp
Day 63: Trek to Pheruche (4210m approx 6:00 hours)
Day 64: Trek to Khumjung (3440m approx 6:30 hours)
Day 65: Trek to Manjo(2610m approx 5:00 hours)
Day 66: Trek to Lukla(2840m approx 3:30 hours)
Day 67: Fly to Kathmandu from Lukla Airport (approx 0:35 hours) / pick up / transfer to Hotel
Day 68: Free day in Kathmandu.
Day 69: Departure
- Mt. Everest climbing Permit/Government royalty
- Accommodation in Kathmandu in 3 – 4 star Hotel as per the itinerary on BB basis
- One day sightseeing in Kathmandu with guide and with all the entry fees included
- Round Trip flight tickets (Kathmandu – Lukla – Kathmandu) for clients and staffs
- Everest National park entry permit
- Government Liaison officer including his allowance, accommodation, meals, insurance and flights
- Accommodation at tented camps during the trip up to base camp
- Three meals (breakfast, Lunch and dinner) a day during the trip up to base camp
- Qualified and experienced trekking guide, cook, sherpas & porters
- Accommodation, food, allowance, equipment, insurance for all trekking crews
- All the camping utensils member tents, kitchen tent, dinning tents, shower tent, toilet tent, table, chairs, sleeping mattress, pillow and all kitchen utensils
- Kathmandu – Lukla – Kathmandu air cargo service
- All the official paper works and all applicable government taxes
- Sleeping bag, down jacket, rucksack if required up to base camp
Services not included
- Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
- Climbing guide
- Garbage deposit fee
- Insurance of clients
- Emergency rescue evacuation
- Expenses of personal nature and all bar bills